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Finally, a modern Italian restaurant that treats good wine as a right rather than a privilege, offering decently priced Tuscans, Le Marches, and Umbrians, with a particularly fine Montepulciano Rosso from the last category. The food's fab, too, from the polipetti brasati (braised baby octopi) to wood-oven individual pizzas (pick the one with two cheeses and black peppercorns) to rich pastas delivered in huge servings, including a picture-perfect bucatini amatriciana from a tiny town in Lazio, featuring the cured hog jowl called guanciale. Only the secondi occasionally bomb. The premises is relaxing and rustic, and there's a fine patio out back.