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This gleaming, streamlined diner went Pakistani, immodestly proclaiming on the marquee, "America's Best Grilled Kebabs," and we'd be the last to contradict it. The range of tandoori-cooked meats is indeed impressive, from the outsize lamb chops well-rubbed with a fragrant masala, to the quails, which cower on the glass shelf, to the whole chicken, glowing red and looking like it wants to jump onto your plate. Kissed with cinnamon, the samosas bulge with filling, while the biryani is nut brown and filled with jagged chunks of lamb. And don't miss the cornmeal-thickened beef pudding called haleem, festively strewn with scallions and frizzled onions.