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The minute you step into the modest-sized premises not far from Brooklyn’s Gowanus Canal and only slightly downhill from Park Slope, you’ll notice the red smoker, which delights the eye and perfumes the air. From it fly burnt brisket edges that are the equal of any in town, charred and smoky. Eat them like candy. The sliced brisket itself tends to be too lean, but the hot links are sausage royalty, garlicky and spicy simultaneously, but missing that painful artificial red color that distinguishes the North Texas and Oklahoma product. Stepping out of the barbecue mainstream, Fletcher’s Brooklyn Barbecue does a char siu pork that comes with the usual Cantonese barbecue sauce – skip it! – and much-better pork ribs, which are as good as long-smoked ribs get. The Carolina-style chopped pork sandwich topped with coleslaw is also fab. Keeping this establishment squarely within the best barbecue traditions, sides tend to be iffy. Our advice: Go with the modern tasting mac-and-cheese.