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This congenial neighborhood café peddles small wonders like proper seltzer, a strong Tom Collins, and delicious country-style paté. At lunch, the sandwiches are particularly good, including a stellar reconstruction of the New Orleans-style muffuletta, and a banh mi filled with fat slices of pork paté. Don't miss the bluefish rillettes, which sometimes sell out later in the evening. Other lovely things to eat include perfect oysters, deviled eggs with creamy, whipped centers that taste of good mustard and yolks, and the brick-red cashews fried with smoked paprika.