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Nothing better than the blackened trout at this informal Armenian café, which boasts one of the city's nicest restaurant gardens. In fact, nearly anything done on the charcoal grill is likely to be great, including the quartet of baby lamb chops or the double-thick pork chop, which arrives sadly smeared with red sauce. Just wipe it off. Among non-grilled items, the "stuffed dough with meat" turns out to be wonderful noodle purses of lamb and onions, while satsiva is a cooling salad of chicken with walnut sauce. For vegetarians, there are eggplant flutes stuffed with farmer cheese.