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Outfitted with masses of gleaming chandeliers, this soaring glass box is located on the Williamsburg waterfront between Domino Sugar and the Brooklyn Navy Yard-hardly an auspicious location. But the pricey retro-Italian fare is much better than expected. Try a first course of penne alla vodka with a zingy cream and tomato sauce, and a second course of well-browned chicken rollatini featuring a huge breast wrapped around cheese and prosciutto. The best deal is the prix fixe four-course dinner,and for dessert, don't miss the freshly filled cannoli.