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The unusual name suits the bistro: It was coined by Washington Irving to lampoon New York City, based on a translation of the Dutch name Gotham. The food hits all the usual local and sustainable notes, tendering an especially fine hamburger with homemade mayo, pickled purple onions, and Brooklyn-made dill pickles. Utilizing the same meat, the beef tartare is enriched with a raw organic egg yolk, and served with celery root remoulade - proving that this joint is not oblivious of the French heritage of the bistro genre. The interior is yellow and extensively tiled, and other things we dug included kale salad, mussels steamed in bacon and beer, and the raw oyster service, which runs to four varieties offered with a very adult mignonette.