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Almost vegan Gobo--which possesses a familial connection to the Zen Palate chain--is one of Manhattan's odder restaurants. The menu goes for the global, moving effortlessly from South America to China, with many stops in between. We really dug the papaya ceviche and the Peruvian root-vegetable stew, especially since the agreeable orange broth also contained pozole. Too many dishes, however, achieve their results via application of grease and sugar, and the prices seem awfully high. Lunch specials are a great deal, and the green-tea-colored dining room, open kitchen, and multiculti staff make dining a pleasure.