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Go through the cluttered door on Main Street, and descend into a wonderland of regional Chinese fare at Golden Shopping Mall. From Xi'an (stall 36) comes a richly flavored and textured lamb sandwich on a homemade pita garnished with pickled peppers, and a plate of broad homemade wheat noodles with a lamb sauce that includes chile oil and shots of toasted tahini. Stall 31 is Sichuanese, and the roster of delectables includes oil-slicked meat salads topped with crushed peanuts, dan-dan noodles, and sweet potato vermicelli hot pots. At stall 32, from Wenzhou, find finger-shaped fish cakes in a mild broth, while stalls 27 and 38 features the round pork stuffed dumplings of Tianjin. Additionally, the latter offer several types of bean curd salads, and slices of what might be mistaken for Polish sausage. Maybe it really is.