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Fifth Avenue at holiday time is hard on feet, backs, pocketbooks, and stomachs. Relief is at hand, beyond the haute-hotel chasseur-pushed revolving door. Up the stairs to the right, this bar offers potent potables to those in need, but soothes my shopping stress with a complete English tea. Served with flair and panache by a tailcoated majordomo, the meal consists of savory ham, smoked salmon, and cucumber sandwiches (crustless, naturally), small cakes, fruit tartlets, and, the ultimate comfort food, warm scones with butter and jam. Tea choices range from Darjeeling to Lapsang souchong, English breakfast to herbal. Sink into the comfy chairs, savor the service, and forget the fray.