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The brisket sandwich with gravy really rocks at this classic Williamsburg kosher deli, which remains picturesquely unrenovated since the '60s. Go for the large size, and side it with the usually excellent (unless they've been reheated a couple of times) fries. The chicken cutlets that beckon from the window are also fab, and we can't remember tasting better Hungarian goulash, the potatoes and tender hunks of beef bathed in a mild, paprika-tinged sauce. Thursday the action really heats up with specials like chopped chicken liver and gefilte fish.