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Don't be put off by the massive steam table, this Pakistani/Northern Indian restaurant's food is vibrantly, impressively fresh-tasting. The dishes are a testament to all the many wonderful things one can make with humble cuts of meat, lentils and rice, and plenty of spice. Don't miss the goat curry, a green-chile-spiked wonder, rubbed with spices and cooked on the bone for such a long time that the meat goes limpid and utterly tender, moistened only with its own drippings. Keema, a heavily spiced ground-meat dish, arrives in a great pile of browned minced chicken, mung beans, tomatoes, green chilies, and cilantro. Don't leave without a box of the rainbow-hued mithai (South Asian sweets). The carrot burfi is particularly fine.