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On Fridays during Lent, Guagua Pichincha (named after a volcano south of Quito) pulls out all the stops and whips up fanesca, a stew that, by legend, includes one bean for each of the Christian apostles. The rest of the year, you'll be content with one of the voluminous Ecuadorian platters. Arranged like the national flag, bandera features turmeric-laced tripe stew, white rice, and goat stew, with an excellent soupy shrimp ceviche on the side. Also recommended are the fever-yellow potato pancakes called llapingachos, and encebollado mixto, a meal-size fish soup that, as the name implies, is heavy on the onions.