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Follow the swarm of cabs to this Pakistani restaurant, where vegetables are forsaken in favor of one of the meatiest and most highly flavored cuisines on the planet. Ignore the illuminated menu at Haandi, and carefully scan the steam table and the glass shelf above it before ordering. Nearly always in evidence is chicken karahi, a mellow yellow stew thickened with tomato sauce, and paya, a screwy, gluey braise of cow feet that's often enjoyed at breakfast. One day a flock of succulent tandoori quail landed on the counter, to be succeeded by the damper masala quail on the steam table the next day.