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Though the name is something of a misnomer (most great Texas barbecues are located east of Austin, not in the Hill Country), this institution succeeds in perfectly recreating Central Texas barbecue, emulating Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas. The brisket--available in fatty or lean--is amazing, but the beef shoulder is often even better, smoky and richly textured. The sausage actually comes from Kreuz Market, and is unimpeachable in a loose-skinned sort of way. Don't touch the barbecue sauce! Rather, request a slice of white bread or two to wrap your 'cue in, Texas style.