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Nothing better on a blustery day than one of H.C."s meal-size soups--ruthang momo, for example, beefy homemade dumplings immersed in a thin broth pleasing subtlety. As you dive deeper, you"ll find freshly shelled peas, cilantro, baby spinach leaves, and, finally, a nest of bean-thread noodles, as clear as blown glass. Based on spicy boiled potatoes, the composed salads are also mouth-worthy, especially those that feature the spongy bean curd that is a Nepalese signature. A wealth of stewed meats and poultry, pan-fried noodles, flatbreads, curries, and strange teas (try the mouth-stinging ginger or buttery bocha) complete the bill of fare. The dining room is small and chill, and provides views across a flower garden to Houston Street.