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What may be the first real Hunan restaurant in the city, Hunan House, features hot, sour, and salty tastes, with as much spiciness as Sichuan, but lacking the peppercorns. "Braised fish with pickled chili sauce"-the first dish on the House Special menu--features an entire striped bass smothered in pickled red and orange chiles, with the head of the fish propped up for easy access to eyes and cheeks. Other great dishes included braised pork Mao's style (the Chairman grew up in a Hunan village), white chili with preserved beef, sautéed vegetable with spicy sauce, bean curd in green scallion sauce, and smoked duck. A tureen of cooling pumpkin soup should be ordered to stanch the burn.