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A worthy addition to the haute barnyard genre, Hundred Acres tends to be more affordable than its brethren, serving countrified, farmhouse-chic plates that are pleasingly straightforward, unpretentious, and generously portioned. The menu will change seasonally, natch. Recently, we loved tongue-tea sandwiches, much heartier than the "tea" designation implies, featuring thinly sliced whole-grain bread spread thickly with butter and piled high with garnet rounds of tongue. A main dish of sauteed calf liver topped with a tumble of pickled sweet cherries was genius. Grilled bluefish was also enjoyable, garnished with a slick of rust-orange paprika aioli, and sided with a vinegary, crunchy little carrot-cucumber salad.