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Having previously extolled the virtues of the organic egg brunches at Ici, we come before you now to praise the seasonal dinners. In a collision of rich, salty, and bitter flavors, the wilted-dandelion salad with anchovy cream flaunts a poached egg on top; startlingly, the greens are grown in Red Hook. The braised beef short ribs are a paragon of their type, while the crisp-skinned Spanish mackerel arrives washed in red waves of sour kimchi. All of which make the orecchiette with greens and grated cheese seem dull by comparison. Chocoholics: Don't miss the chocolate pot de crème.