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The name sounds like a bodily fluid, and this theater district restaurant is as quiet and elegant as a funeral parlor, but the Italian food is fantastic. The menu is divided into traditional fare and newfangled chef inventions, and there is something for everyone. Timid diners may prefer the linguine al vongole made with tiny Manila clams, tendering a broth more savory than the southern Italian original, while the more adventuresome may go for a colorful reconfigured Caprese salad transformed into tomato water buoying diced buffalo mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes. Our favorite dish is an entrée of boiled meats (tongue, brisket, sausage, chicken) served with a trio of relishes.