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James is a very polite addition to the handsome brownstoned Prospect Heights neighborhood, a bistro so good that it makes Manhattan jealous. Start with the crunchy sweetbreads in a tart rhubarb glaze or the asparagus salad that mixes white and green specimens, then progress to the big lush hamburger dripping juices or the nut-coated trout served with fennel slaw. Even the desserts excel, and the decent but short wine list is decently priced. We hesitate to mention the picayune drawbacks of this fabulous spot, but the noise level can deafening, no reservations are taken, and the sun hits you right in the eyes early in the evening.