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This superb steam-table spot is a pillar of its Bangladeshi neighborhood, and is hopping all day long. Don't pay much attention to the menu-just find out what the cooks made that day and point to what looks good. Do ask for the "mashed potato"-a sensationally pungent mash of potato seasoned with mustard seeds, chiles, onion and cilantro and finished off with plenty of mustard oil. Also worth trying are stewed bitter gourd and lush lamb biryani. Also ask if they have pitha, flat, fried bread, soaked in sweet syrup that's often served in Bengali homes for special occasions.