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Handily bridging the gap between a creative modern bistro and a beer bar with exotic pulls and bottles, Jimmy's strives to be underground in more ways than one. The menu changes daily, and the chef takes plenty of chances. We inhaled the sausage snack, the creamless corn soup, the heirloom tomato salad with tiny cubes of mozzarella, the wild-ass pickle plate featuring cherries rather than cherry tomatoes, and the retooled shepherd's pie topped with stone-ground grits. And, miracle of miracles, all the cooking is done on a hot plate. Watch for special cheese, honey, and chocolate tastings in the side room.