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The largest and most splendid of the Hong Kong dim sum palaces is approached by an escalator ride that seems to take five minutes. The dim sum are absolutely stunning. Highlights include pellucid dumplings filled with pork, shrimp, peanuts, and water chestnuts and surprising sticky-rice shu mei. Most of it comes to you by cart, but you have to get up to visit the serving station where shrimp, periwinkles, and clams are dispensed, and fish balls, head-on shrimp, and pig skin are boiled to order.