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It's something of a shock to discover a Sicilian focacceria, even a vestigial one, in Kensington. Yet a steam table features silky broccoli rabe wreathed with caramelized onions, perfectly fried squid, penne with a nominal red sauce, even potato croquettes and rice balls. The balance of the establishment has evolved into a pizza parlor and, more recently, a Northern Italian restaurant with an ambitious menu of chicken, veal, and fish. But further evidence of Joe's roots is found in the excellent square Sicilian slice, clumped with sauce and smothered in cheese.