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John Brown Smokehouse in Long Island City was a late arrivant to the barbecue game in town, but has proved to be one of our most desirable pits. Named after the leader of a slave uprising just prior to the Civil War, the joint specializes in Kansas City barbecue, which means lightly glazed spare ribs, smoked brisket, andbest of all the charred tips cut off the brisket ends, which may be purchased separately. A surprise favorite is the pulled pork (which may be made into a sandwich with some of the non-mayo slaw). If the pitmaster has smoked lamb sausage that day, grab some! Unexpectedly, the French fries are wonderful, and so are the meat-intensive collards.