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Stylish but small, outfitted with comfy plush furniture, Joloff (named after a historic tribe that once dominated West Africa) is one of the city"s most accessible sub-Saharan restaurants. Though the national dish of tiebuu jeun (aka "cheb" -- fish and vegetables over rice) is somewhat pallid, the mafe (meat or chicken in peanut sauce) more than makes up for it. The recipes have been concocted with the tender-tongued in mind, but if you want to really eat African-style, ask for the hot sauce known as "pima." The menu is broad ranging, and this is one of the few Senegalese restos to offer apps, including boulettes -- lightly seasoned and fried fish balls.