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Joseph Leonard, representing the first names of proprietor Gabriel Stuhlman"s grandfathers, also represents the triumphal return of the small neighborhood bistro, where the food is mainly French in outlook. There"s a bang-up brandade, decorated with pepper marmalade, and a perfect frisee salad with lardons and egg, deconstructed but still unmistakably French. For the amorous, there"s a raw oyster service with mignonette. Best entrée we"ve tasted there so far is artic char seared in brown butter, or, for lighter diners, a mushroom omelet. The view out the window also makes this place an instant West Village classic.