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Gabe Stulman and his Little Wisco team have built six restaurants in the past five years â€” an impressive feat made more spectacular by the fact that the ventures donâ€™t share a common culinary tradition (he now counts among his collection a raw bar, an izakaya, an Italian joint, and a French bistro). His landgrab began in 2009 at Joseph Leonard, an all-American spot on a corner plot in the West Village that set the tone for what was to come: While Stulmanâ€™s places donâ€™t share dishes, they do share an essentially neighborhood vibe and a penchant for a good time. Diners here are crammed haphazardly into this small and dim split-level space, but no one seems to mind. Instead, they ask their neighbors to recommend a few dishes, ordering mussels and fries, brussels sprouts with sriracha, and crisped braised pork hock, while knocking back cocktails and bottles of wine. If youâ€™re the brunching type, this is an excellent place to find yourself on a Saturday morning, not least because the bloody marys are exceptional.