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Ryan Bingham, George Clooney's character in Up in the Air, would have a ball at this new, upscale Indian restaurant in the Flatiron District, which has about as much character as an executive lounge in the New Delhi airport. Spanning the country's regional cuisines, chef Vikas Khanna's menu celebrates five distinct Indian cooking methods: the tandoor (clay oven), sigri (open fire pit), handi (curry), tawa (cast-iron preparations), and patthar (stone cooking). Highlights include yellow daal tadka and lamb shoulder flavored with papaya juice and garam masala. Rustic food, however, comes at a pretty price-about $80 a person, excluding wine. Included in that tab, though, is an excess of waiters (one per diner!) and a healthy dose of pretension.