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Generally, stick to the sandwiches and the cocktails for a very pleasant night. The former are on crackly-crusted Pairi Bakery rolls, and filled with delicious things like oxtail with tamarind, and crisp bacon with pickled chiles. Cocktails are both tasty and inventive. One winter night, the Phnom Penh hot punch warmed us up with hot apple cider, caramel tea, and a slew of liquor. Small plates are hit-or-miss: Skip the too-expensive pork ribs, but try the fried chicken. Don't forget to squirt it with lemon and drag it through the chile-salt.