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Katsuhama 55 is the younger sibling of old-timer Katsuhama, located on East 47th Street. The new place is bigger, and occupies the second floor of the premises, offering dramatic street views. The core of the menu remains breaded and fried pork cutlets, but all sorts of Japanese pub grub has been added, some of it nearly as perfect as the pork. Fried soba noodles make an amazing snack, and so do the little skewers of fried pumpkin. You can have octopus done several different ways (one of them gooey and raw), or udon noodles in a memorable broth. Our favorite dish is katsudon-a smaller pork cutlet mired in egg, sweet soy sauce, and caramelized onion atop a bowl of white rice. Look for cheap wine and hot sake specials.