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Itâ€™s hard to imagine the Lower East Side without Katzâ€™s Delicatessen, that rare restaurant where native New Yorkers deign to rub elbows with tourists. An institution since 1888, the deli may owe its immortality to the fact that it hasnâ€™t varied its beloved kosher-style menu much in 126 years, even as the neighborhood has transformed around it. Jake Dell, a third-generation co-owner, grew up in the restaurant â€” he recalls hiding from â€śscary Russians with big knivesâ€ť at the deli counter and celebrating his bar mitzvah here â€” and he is intent upon preserving traditions. â€śThe ability to change and grow is important,â€ť he says, â€śbut thatâ€™s not who we are.â€ť Diners appreciate the stripped-down cafeteria and old-school attitude, and they keep coming back for the consistently high-quality pastrami, brisket, and corned-beef sandwiches, matzo ball soup, and hot dogs. If you must avoid the out-of-towners, go late on a weekend night, when Katzâ€™s is open around the clock.