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Kenmare has styled itself as a mere celebrity hang, but chef Joey Campanaro has a formidable reputation when it comes creating food that falls somewhere between comfort food and fine dining, first at Little Owl, then at Market Table. He has preserved his signature mixed-meat slider as a bar snack, and anything in a pasta vein is also recommended, including a dish of shrimp and spaghetti fra diavolo, which is as spicy as the name suggests. A breaded veal cutlet with salsa verde also delighted us, though the asparagus appetizer was too short on asparagus and long on arugula. The premises is darkened and stucco-ed, and may be the perfect place for a rendezvous at the bar, where you don"t need one of those nearly unobtainable reservations.