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New York City may be protective of its pizza style, but over the years, it has embraced a few guardians of the Neapolitan version. The best in Lower Manhattan is KestÃ©, presided over by chef-owner Roberto Caporuscio, a pizzaiolo decorated with credentials for his expertise in dough, tomato, and mozzarella. When heâ€™s not busy presiding over the U.S. chapter of the Associazone Pizzaiuoli Napoletani or up in midtown slinging pies at Don Antonio, heâ€™s in the West Village at his home base with the brown awning, tweaking his lengthy, reliable menu for the fervent fans who crowd KestÃ©â€™s hallway-size dining room. Despite his rÃ©sumÃ©, Caporuscio is no purist: Here, there are spicy pizzas loaded with hot sopressata; white pies spread with walnut cream, green zucchini, and smoked mozzarella; pizzas dripping Nutella; and, nowadays, gluten-free options. But the obsessiveness of his craft comes across best in the margherita, topped with homemade mozzarella and bright tomato sauce, then blistered and charred in a Neapolitan oven until the seasoned crust is just-right chewy.