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While chef Harold Dieterle's first Village restaurant added Southeast Asian touches to what was basically a bistro menu, Kin Shop goes whole hog when it comes to adapting and transforming Thai food, and most of the dishes easily hit their mark. Mainstream larb is effortlessly evoked with a ground-duck version of the tart and fiery salad, while squid-ink soup plays with the cuisine, creating a liquid black monster that will stain your insides while also beguiling your taste buds (the squid rings come stuffed with brisket, in an almost science-chef move). Curries form the core of the menu, and best of all is the sour-rabbit-leg, which comes wrapped in a banana leaf. The premises are quiet and pale green.