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Kings County is a dark oasis of grown-up sophistication in grimy, slowly gentrifying Bushwick. Artfully rusted metal clads the exterior; inside itas all beautifully crafted wood and metal fittings, and a crowd of regulars who respect the brilliantly low-key atmosphere. There are no candy-ass drink specials, just choice whiskeys and other booze, good beer, and carefully selected wines. The red-bearded, tattooed proprietor, Chops, has created the kind of bar he and his friends like to drink in, and their taste is impeccable.