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Gourmands, at least in caricature, are messy, obsessive, extremely smart but (the good ones) not snobby, and passionate. Kitchen Arts & Letters is like the inside of a gourmandas mind. It is crammed with thousands of food tomes and cookbooks (from the latest to the rarest), in a logical but confusing arrangement, which encourages lengthy perusing. The owners are jolly and full of advice, encyclopedic knowledge, and energy.