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There are a lot of fancy little food shops in New York, which is all fine and good, but thereas really nothing better than a shop that doesnat give a crap about you. Many such places are on the Lower East Side, and of them all, 65-year-old Kossaras Bialys is the best example. Itas not that they arenat friendly and pleasant, but their attitude is: This is where we make themayou can have some if you want. And you do, because they are by far the best, and maybe the only real bialys in the country.