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The name means "happy" in Mandarin, and Kuai Le's emblem is a smiling Buddha. Hand-pulled noodles in the Lanzhou style are the centerpiece of the menu, served in soups with a vast choice of other inclusions that run from oxtail to lamb stomach to roast duck to pork chops. If you can't decide, pick the wonderful "house special," which includes a fried egg plus a half-dozen other ingredients (two kinds of tripe!). But this tiny shop has a co-specialty of peel noodles, like Sheng Wang on Eldridge Street--fettuccine cut from a whirling cylinder of dough with a knife, and used in some of the same soups. The steamed pork dumplings are also dope--and cheap.