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Improbably concealed in a second-floor loft on Ludlow, Kuma Inn espouses both tapas and Pacific Rim fusion, which might make you yawn and turn the page, only the food is improbably excellent. Varying the fusion terrain, some of the best dishes are from the Philippine canon, including lechon kawali--crisp pork belly with a puckering and spicy soy dip. Anything made with Chinese sausage is also a good bet, such as the flat round omelet made with scallions, sprouts, and sausage. Alas, the wine list is mainly sakes: You'll need an expert to decipher it.