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Channeling an ancient Catskills resort property, this Tribeca restaurant seeks to reconstruct the traditional Jewish deli menu along fine-dining lines. The house-smoked pastrami--provided in two permutations, the "deckle" and the "flat"--is superb, streaked with fat and intensely flavorful. So is the veal tongue, as soft as a down pillow. Gefilte fish has been resuscitated as fibrous puck of fish, without all the jelly and unfirmness, while French fries are cooked in mellow duck fat. Indeed, schmaltz is everywhere apparent, a paragon of alt-fat. For entrees, if you make it that far, go for the short ribs or chicken for two. The dining room at Kutsher's Tribeca is Danish Moderne, and the funny cocktail list will make you feel like you're steeling booze from your parents' alcohol cabinet.