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We christened this menu "Goth-Mex" (short for Gotham-Mexican) because it adapts regional Mexican recipes for New York tastes. Despite a dearth of chiles, the food is mainly exemplary, with something for everyone. Sopa tarasca is a good way to start -- a smoky black bean soup originally from Michoacan -- followed by a brace of tacos, say, lengua (tongue, long-stewed and supple) and rajas (roasted pepper strips). Other dishes we particularly enjoyed included torta ahogada, a big sloppy carnitas sandwich you have to eat with a fork, and a queso fundido, a Mexican fondue floating excellent crumbly chorizo. Pay special attention to the red-letter specials at the bottom of the menu.