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At the back of a glorified hallway on the Chinatownâ€“LES border, an employee of Lam Zhou Handmade Noodle thwaps long ribbons of dough into submission, eventually separating the lengthening putty into strands. Behind a swinging door, a cadre of cooks turns those hand-pulled beauties into an assortment of noodle soups, each bobbing with different bits of pig, cow, or fish. Take a seat at a grubby table in the dining room and try not to be put out by the fact that youâ€™re being paid no attention by the staff. Order the basic beef noodle; the broth is lent flavor by what must be a well-cured pot: Itâ€™s rich, redolent of garlic, and fortifying, and it swims with bits of beef, sautĂ©ed greens, and, of course, those noodles, which have both weight and chew. Add chile sauce from the table if you need a sinus-cleanser along with a warm-up, and supplement your order with pungent, thin-skinned pork dumplings. Fork over the spare change you found between couch cushions, and head back out to East Broadway feeling utterly renewed.