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The name of the restaurant, Le Midi, is the familiar term French people use to refer to the southernmost reaches of France. But Le Midi is not a Provencal restaurant--rather, it's a Parisian-style bistro that constructs its menu out of standards, plus a few regional fillips such as an actual French bistro might have. The onion soup is perhaps the best in town: a vast crouton oozing Gruyere, floating like the result of a shipwreck in a sea of dark oniony broth. Other preferred dishes include a half-chicken braised in Riesling and a frisee salad with huge lardoons, for you bacon lovers out there. One of the few actual Provencal offerings on the menu--a rabbit in a tomato-and-fennel sauce--is also well worth ordering. Decorated with abstract paintings, the premises housing Le Midi was once the loading dock for a Woolworth's, and the gray, poured-concrete interior has largely been retained, making every splash of color that appears on the plate a welcome diversion.