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As old-style Jewish delis disappear from the landscape, we've been looking further afield for authentic ones. Open since 1953, Liebman's is a downtown Riverdale favorite, with an appealing window display of neatly stacked potato pancakes, round and square knishes, and pigs in blankets (tiny cocktail weenies rolled in pastry), and a dining room done in pale-green Naugahyde with subdued lighting, which looks good on white hair. The corned beef is the meat to get; while the pastrami is moist, it lacks smoky flavor. Also good is the matzo ball soup, with glove-soft, baseball-size dumplings.