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With owners from Florence and Milan, Lievito ("Yeast" or "Leavening") is a full-blown Italian restaurant masquerading as a pizza parlor. The wine list alone merits a visit, and the pizzas are unique--bringing northern Italian culinary traditions to what is basically a Neapolitan pie. The real goldmine are the home-style Florentine dishes, such as a pap of bread crumbs and tomatoes, and a sformatino (flan) featuring artichokes and taleggio cheese, which should be spread on the bread. There are many tomato-less pies, including one decorated with tiny weenies called "wurstel," demonstrating the Teutonic influence on northern Italian cooking. The light, pureed vegetable soups are worth tasting, and so are the fundamental (and abundant) shredded salads.