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Those who knew the old Little Pepper space on a hardscrabble stretch of Roosevelt Avenue will be impressed with the latest premises located two miles north in College Point--spacious and decorated with good photos. The menu remains quintessentially Sichuan, with three types of spicy wontons (two in soups), fresh fish in abundance swimming in lakes of hot chili oil, and some of the best French fries in town ("fried potato in hot sauce") -- dusted with Sichuan peppercorns. Only the tea-smoked duck disappoints, and for the tender tongued, there are now a handful of Cantonese and Taiwanese recipes. Lots of vegetables on the new menu, too, including crunchy lotus and squishy loofah, and don't miss the spectacular succotash of corn and pine nuts.