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Giovanni is perhaps the only master pizza-maker to have gone so unsung over the years. To best experience Luigi's, order a pie, rather than grabbing a slice that's been sitting out. Hot out of the oven, the crust is thinnish and chewy, dotted with charred bubbles and full of yeasty flavor. In the summer, Gio makes his sauce with tomatoes and herbs grown in his father's Staten Island Garden. (His father is Luigi.) Order the fresh mozzarella pizza with eggplant and garlic, and wait while Gio puts the phone down to yell: "Ma, we got eggplant?" You hope they do--in which case his mother will fry the eggplant to a crisp, and Gio will construct the pie with freshly chopped garlic, sauce, eggplant, and rounds of milky mozzarella. Each pie is finished with lashings of Gio's homemade herb olive oil.