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Michael White's temple to Italian seafood is full of pleasures. It's also full of incredibly rich people. To experience Marea on something approaching the cheap, go for one of the pastas, which are the both the best, and most affordable dishes they offer. They're all hand-made, and each piece is so lovely and singular that you find yourself staring at them the way parents marvel at the toes and fingers of a newborn. Try the ridiculously delicious plate of homemade fusilli with octopus and bone marrow, or a neat heap of spaghetti generously slicked with a vividly orange sauce of pur√©ed sea urchin, topped with crab, an exercise in oceanic excess. There are three non-seafood pastas to choose from--the best of the bunch is garganelli in a simple pork sausage rag√É¬Ļ. The tubular egg noodles are so fresh, they almost feel alive under your teeth.