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Named after the cattle-raising southwestern region of Tuscany, Maremma specializes in Tuscan cowboy cooking. The fried chicken is lemon scented, the papardelle with wild boar sauce features a touch of chocolate, and many of the dishes have wacky names;pork ribs sided with grits, for example, is dubbed "earn your spurs." Sometimes the wild ideas misfire like a cheap handgun. "I know why you like this place," a friend observed, "the menu is a combination of Italian food and greasy deep-fried stuff." She was right.